June 27, 2012. a significant day for me.
the second day of the parikrama.
we were to leave very early so that we reach the top point of Dolma La [pass] before the sun gets too hot.
the total time taken was estimated to be on a average about 12-13 hours, possibly extending to 15.
we had packed lunch, after a light, but high-calorie breakfast and started on the trek.
today, we would not be able to see any face of Kailas, as the hills we would be walking around, would occult Kailas.
the path was not paved, sometimes just sand, some times rocky. sometimes, steep climb, sometimes more gradual, but winding.
we are to climb about 2000 feet in 6 kilometers and come down almost the same height, in about 4-5 kilometers.
after about a kilometer and a half, Anandi decided to take a pony to Dolma La, and my porter and hers decided to swap places.
that was when something strange happened. i felt the urge to keep moving on, without sitting to take rest.
i passed Ganesh kund in the valley below and a stone which was considered ganesha .
a little further up, another stone that was pointed to by my porter – and i was asked to put in my forefinger through the two holes in that stone – considered to bring luck, by the Tibetans.
this was not on the side of the rock facing the path – and unless the porter had told me – in gestures – i would not have known.
from Dolma La, it is a steep downhill, with rocks and loose sand in between. i got down confidently, with the grip of the shoes and also the porter who would not let my hand at spots where he felt that i needed guidance.
as we got down, i saw gowri kund - that also needed a trek down to fetch water, if someone wanted.
we had to cross some ice – frozen stream - and it started to very lightly snow .
after the tea shop at the bottom of the descent, it was once again reasonably flat.
observe the blueness of the sky!
came across to ladies doing their kora – pretty much like ‘adi pradakshinam’.
they prostrate, get up, take a couple of steps to prostrate again, in effect doing it one body length after another. apparently, it could take them upto a month to complete a parikrama.
though relatively easier, the road seemed endless.
at one point, i was relieved when i saw some tents and thought that was our destination – the thatha porter laughed loudly in his characteristic way and No la, and pointing around another tall hill – and said Laaaaaa! Ha ha ha ha ha..
when i reached the zuthulpuk guest house – after an hour’s break at the tea shop, waiting for the others – i had clocked nine hours and thirty minutes!
looking back. when people asked me how i picked up speed or completed the day 2 or what i felt during the parikrama, i had no answer.
i had been walking like a driven zombie, if there was one. i could feel some power pushing me and egging me on, not to stop and sit, but take a brief pause and keep moving.
some very personal experiences also happened through this walk – too personal to share here… whenever i paused, the old man porter would keep calling chalo chalo.. and at times, i felt like a cousin of Forrest Gump, who had to keep walking..
i also noticed that the sherpas were moving up and down – multiple times, looking out for people who may need help or oxygen.one of them was carrying an oxygen cylinder on his back..
they moved on only after everyone had safely crossed Dolma La. in fact, there was one lady who was left alone by her guide – from another group, as the sherpas had to take care of another group member who needed to be brought down and taken back. our sherpas carried her stuff and also brought her down to safer levels.
their dedication and cheerfulness, as well as resourcefulness to ensure the safety and comfort of all the members deserves a lot of praise and thanks.
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