tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73229502903418180042024-03-13T05:19:19.348+05:30kailash experiencepersonal experiences related to a trip to kailash in 2012Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-24448780771639606942012-07-14T22:08:00.001+05:302012-07-14T22:08:21.204+05:30preface<p> </p> <p>why a preface to a blog?</p> <p>i guess it makes it look more serious and professional.. as a publication.</p> <p>this blog was triggered by some requests from friends who wanted some narratives with the pictures i had shared from our trip to Kailas and mansarovar.</p> <p>though these tours usually cover mansarovar first, for some reason, they are called Kailas mansarovar.</p> <p>the next few posts are essentially a personal account – on the lighter and amused side – of the yatra.</p> <p>based on your interest and time available – and of course patience, you can read </p> <p>a. a twitter version:</p> <p>>> amazing mind altering experience during the Kailas mansarovar yatra. </p> <p>b. a Facebook version:</p> <p>>> got back from a 2 week trip to Kailas and mansarovar via Kathmandu with family and friends. good to be completely cut off from Facebook – but good to be back. wish you were also there. if you like this, please also share with your friends circle, so that everyone can get the blessings of lord Shiva etc etc etc</p> <p>c. the more elaborate version:</p> <p>>> read all the posts that follow this!</p> <p> </p> <p>whatever version you read – note that the experience is extremely personal and though we went as a group, each person experienced it uniquely.</p> <p>what i am sharing may not be the same for others. some aspects may be similar, but if you need to experience it, this blog is not a proxy!</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-27973685706463381582012-07-14T22:06:00.001+05:302012-07-14T22:06:47.087+05:30the beginnings<p>it was a casual - or may be not all that casual - call from a friend asking if i would be interested in visiting mansarovar and Kailas. <p>in a moment of excitement, i said SURE, and .. in sotto voce, let me think about it. <p>when my wife, sister-in-law and her husband were also interested, the decision was made, not still realizing what it would be or mean in terms of preparations. <p>one added incentive was that we could get the early bird offer, if we paid up in the next few days. <p>with the subsidy from the Karnataka government, it made a very good proposition. <p>this was sometime in October 2011. <p>and then, slowly, I realized that many persons among known circles had either visited or knew others who had visited Kailas and mansarovar in the past. <p>and almost all of them had fairly discouraging stories to tell. <p>discouraging in terms of the hardship, facilities etc. <p>and then, there were these blogs. <p>and some books - including one that out family doctor gave to read. <p>all of them mentioned the challenges, the difficulties - but were silent about the actual parikrama. <p>reading about the <a href="http://www.uttaranchal-india.com/pilgrimage-in-uttaranchal/kailash-mansarovar.html">government route</a>, made the trip more exciting - and knowing that the private tour is not as long [14 days compared to 30] and strenuous [mostly trekking versus just a few days of trekking, mostly carry your own food and make do with tents along the way to sherpas worrying about good, timely food and staying in mud houses or semi-permanent tents in most places] made it appear less daunting. <p>but then, a couple of aspects that were needed anyway : physical and mental fitness. <p>physical fitness including ability to cope with the high altitude aspects of low oxygen levels and mental fitness, to stay calm under not so convenient surroundings. <p>though there was no specific requirement or regime for physical training, we were advised that regular walking of a few kilometers every day should be fine. <p>however, regular pranayama was a must - to have greater control and stability over one's breathing. <p>but then, there were different techniques - breathing slowly, quick breathing, retaining the breath longer and slow exhalation etc. <p>anyway, having decided to take the trip, talking to others only added to the anxiety - particularly to other members of the group - as one would always end up with the feeling that one is very under-prepared. the same feeling you get talking to your classmates before an exam - that you have taken somewhat lightly [don't ask me which subject i did not take lightly!]. <p>it does not matter what they said - whether they were doing a lot of things - including organizing a personal trainer, or walking up chamundi hills in Mysore regularly - or that they have not yet bought their shoes and have not started any routines -- one felt that the former group is overdoing and the latter is underplaying, while they probably have been doing something, surely more than oneself! <p>the children were also very excited - that they get to stay home alone for two weeks! not realizing what they were getting into..</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-87908972292280448102012-07-14T22:00:00.001+05:302012-07-14T22:00:40.861+05:30day 1 – Kathmandu<p> </p> <p>that day started very early, since we were taking the morning flight to Delhi and connect to Kathmandu.</p> <p>with the usual anxiety of whether the cab would turn up on time – as i had booked with an agency that was no longer an approved airport taxi!</p> <p>the driver called a few minutes before the planned departure time – to check the address and directions.</p> <p>he managed to reach home in time, but with the luggage to be loaded – 4 packed duffel bags with a lot of eats! – it took us a few minutes and we left home about 10 minutes late.</p> <p>as we drove to the airport, i realized that there was an easier way to practice pranayama, thanks to the cab driver.</p> <p>even though the roads were empty, the way he drove at times, one had to hold the breath – particularly for me, since i was sitting in the front.</p> <p>at Delhi, there was some logistics of collecting the passports. as per an earlier plan, they were to have been delivered at Kathmandu – since we needed only a voter ID to enter Nepal. with confusion in communication on the specific person to be met and also the location, the group that had travelled together – about a dozen of us on the same flight – split.</p> <p>naturally, that increased the stress levels for some of us – particularly those that could not check their luggage in directly to Kathmandu. [see also the tips section to ensure that you have the entire itinerary on one PNR]</p> <p>landing at Kathmandu – we just walked through the immigration – without any stamping on the passport. yes, we were able to collect the passports and also, since i had done a tele check in for the DEL-KTM flight, could get on board, while some others were bumped due to overbooking and had to take a later flight.</p> <p>that was our first meeting with Karma, the Sherpa.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wxehUkKgZbY/UAGeJmUQxJI/AAAAAAAAEuM/IR77OBa407c/s1600-h/Sivapix-2333.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 233" border="0" alt="Sivapix 233" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5FAsgToMI7s/UAGeLRA3ufI/AAAAAAAAEuU/jKWSSgfzWX4/Sivapix-233_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>At the hotel,</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ReSqh3smelc/UAGeN7lEVsI/AAAAAAAAEuc/kdB4uzePwL4/s1600-h/DSCN06663.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0666" border="0" alt="DSCN0666" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eQm6t5Kyrls/UAGePAAu8GI/AAAAAAAAEuk/6brb-uJgJcc/DSCN0666_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IcrClBb8XWA/UAGeTMgRMUI/AAAAAAAAEus/iIx1Kio8aN0/s1600-h/DSCN06633.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0663" border="0" alt="DSCN0663" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SNUYVRZvoh8/UAGeU4Jzr9I/AAAAAAAAEu0/zgttw8GqfPc/DSCN0663_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>the representative from the tour logistics company – shrestha treks – briefed us that there would be a slight delay in our program, as the visas for the group has been delayed by a day.</p> <p>so, he suggested that instead of ‘wasting time on a waste [read rest] day’, we can take an optional tour to a place called mankamna the next day.</p> <p>earlier in the evening, as we had some time to kill – with the planned tour to pasupathinath temple being uncertain, we decided to take a walk in the neighborhood.</p> <p>as we got out of the hotel and asked the security guard at the main gate – he asked ‘Tamil?’.</p> <p>wow, i thought – someone recognizing us as Tamil speaking and maybe he knew Tamil.</p> <p>just as i started to talk to him in Tamil – and saw his blank expression – saw a sign board that had a shop address as ‘Thamel’.</p> <p>Thamel was the neighbourhood with a lot of shops. narrow streets and many shops.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gNE9FbVcNRU/UAGeWwSVF4I/AAAAAAAAEu8/z-5iobMstGk/s1600-h/WP_0002203.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000220" border="0" alt="WP_000220" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HTSTsPH06NQ/UAGeYStbpSI/AAAAAAAAEvE/0u34vxiMUOo/WP_000220_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-z4b8e96AgW8/UAGeapU_gZI/AAAAAAAAEvM/aspiYGVJHRg/s1600-h/WP_0002213.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000221" border="0" alt="WP_000221" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pkRYncR_FGY/UAGecRccnzI/AAAAAAAAEvU/N-OTLVZfPZM/WP_000221_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aaXBsOiR5no/UAGeetZqZYI/AAAAAAAAEvc/Vz_RbWb9gRQ/s1600-h/WP_0002233.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000223" border="0" alt="WP_000223" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sVOUuFGRT8Y/UAGeghjysCI/AAAAAAAAEvk/3JYlmLGPYY0/WP_000223_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zdivwnijyEA/UAGeip9nWnI/AAAAAAAAEvs/TI4c-Fx_yn8/s1600-h/WP_0002243.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000224" border="0" alt="WP_000224" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SUC1oqiXXJU/UAGekErBi3I/AAAAAAAAEv0/s56-j-Mnd5k/WP_000224_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p> </p> <p>after a lot of window shopping and some shopping – with IC – Indian Currency – we returned to the hotel to get an update on the rest of our itinerary.</p> <p>Kathmandu streets have so many overhead wires <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5EyoPF1vfvg/UAGemiY38xI/AAAAAAAAEv8/HD-scCeIqCM/s1600-h/WP_0002153.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000215" border="0" alt="WP_000215" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wp-AXUsDNtg/UAGenyv9AII/AAAAAAAAEwE/8oDd2sppbmg/WP_000215_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> and even for a slight rain, people are comfortable just waiting by the side till it stops..<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OmSOm-hpkAM/UAGeqNiXl0I/AAAAAAAAEwM/GHokCGZjW38/s1600-h/WP_0002193.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000219" border="0" alt="WP_000219" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7SGzNLgUgB8/UAGerivNvWI/AAAAAAAAEwU/M9Yosl-ONx8/WP_000219_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>one interesting point that i noted was that at the evening briefing, we could see some affinity groups emerging! more on these possibly later..</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-68575418358651903972012-07-14T21:56:00.001+05:302012-07-14T21:56:27.251+05:30day 2 - Mankamna<p> </p> <p>taking the advice of the tour operator, we took the optional trip [read extra money], we took the day trip to <a href="http://www.lonelyplanet.com/nepal/kathmandu-to-pokhara/manakamana/sights/other/manakamana-temple" target="_blank">Mankamna temple</a>.</p> <p>though the distance was about 100 KM from Kathmandu, the narrow and very average road made the journey appear very long as it took about 4 hours.</p> <p>we also saw a few accidents on that toad – mostly trucks veering off the main road into the side ditch. that made the motorable [!] road narrower!</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-L5RnZP6zZz4/UAGcjHswqcI/AAAAAAAAEp0/RbM6qg_cYVQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-0603.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 060" border="0" alt="Sivapix 060" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--tWy9jiXTzk/UAGckxDqLAI/AAAAAAAAEp8/tNwWz8SaumU/Sivapix-060_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-tfYRrEstOjQ/UAGcnYp_ZnI/AAAAAAAAEqE/G3RNbhwXYWk/s1600-h/Sivapix-0613.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 061" border="0" alt="Sivapix 061" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sve_sLtZdkw/UAGco62hnsI/AAAAAAAAEqM/HY4oO_qJIOk/Sivapix-061_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>the ‘high point’ of this temple visit was also a cable car ride to reach the temple.</p> <p>as the lonely planet calls it – “ an Austrian-engineered cable car soars up an almost impossibly steep hillside“.</p> <p>the base of the cable car is on the banks of river Thrishul.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-E4GiliWps-U/UAGcrOtCSOI/AAAAAAAAEqU/IQyjZYHjYiY/s1600-h/Sivapix-0173.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 017" border="0" alt="Sivapix 017" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mgaOKFRAjQM/UAGcs7zb31I/AAAAAAAAEqc/NBY-9pIe5P4/Sivapix-017_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vmAXu757ymY/UAGcvfMRWTI/AAAAAAAAEqk/6ESfnnTUVhA/s1600-h/Sivapix-0123.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 012" border="0" alt="Sivapix 012" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OYvKhr6gTBs/UAGcw9FYbOI/AAAAAAAAEqs/dY02w80PDwA/Sivapix-012_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>Since the car goes over multiple hills, it is difficult to guess how long the ride will be. looking from below, it appeared as if it was a small hill, but then, once you cross that, there were more..</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-SlAkYCOCkTc/UAGc0hHKQ3I/AAAAAAAAEq4/SHr8fSkF3HU/s1600-h/Sivapix-0153.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 015" border="0" alt="Sivapix 015" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Utp4ihgOFic/UAGc4OuTTGI/AAAAAAAAErA/r4c0nykmYDA/Sivapix-015_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qRv0-vWCPpU/UAGc58X8gII/AAAAAAAAErI/HcQwZ0XzjI0/s1600-h/Sivapix-0233.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 023" border="0" alt="Sivapix 023" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jssyFYY_lAw/UAGc7ut1blI/AAAAAAAAErQ/kEBhzW1uUcg/Sivapix-023_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NDC1WHTcOTs/UAGc9hggi7I/AAAAAAAAErY/mHn6zxeYDmI/s1600-h/Sivapix-0243.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 024" border="0" alt="Sivapix 024" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-yjp1sdmiOzo/UAGc-zHjOtI/AAAAAAAAErg/JWUO3M2W-b8/Sivapix-024_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sEGcIE8cUrA/UAGdBHP6LuI/AAAAAAAAEro/SyLQvaGSdlc/s1600-h/Sivapix-0433.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 043" border="0" alt="Sivapix 043" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PSaM98fHzLg/UAGdCru6KaI/AAAAAAAAErw/c22v8VuRTDo/Sivapix-043_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>on the way down, we saw the ‘babes of thrishul’ [waves of thrishul], pronounced the local way.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fLpCHALN6XI/UAGdEhdPUxI/AAAAAAAAEr4/_1TbfHYQ4fc/s1600-h/Sivapix-0473.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 047" border="0" alt="Sivapix 047" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ktO5DR_CCRs/UAGdGUjwC-I/AAAAAAAAEsA/YBbzcwyCI8g/Sivapix-047_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manakamana" target="_blank">temple is very old</a> and till the cable car was set up, one had to walk about 3-4 hours to reach the temple – though just about 3 KM as the cable car travels!</p> <p>the main temple is built the pagoda style.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cwmC5w0qYHQ/UAGdIJ1__PI/AAAAAAAAEsI/JsvEe-IOM_M/s1600-h/Sivapix-0323.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 032" border="0" alt="Sivapix 032" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OGgj670r1JQ/UAGdKMv_dOI/AAAAAAAAEsQ/o3RQ7JC9tjc/Sivapix-032_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a> it had been drizzling and the place appeared messy.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wdEkWBWYq6I/UAGdMroNJoI/AAAAAAAAEsY/_Y_vlBb-byk/s1600-h/Sivapix-0343.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 034" border="0" alt="Sivapix 034" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QDCzMV5atwc/UAGdOEnNg7I/AAAAAAAAEsg/88EA2233b2s/Sivapix-034_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Rn5mfuoF0Jo/UAGdSQUDujI/AAAAAAAAEss/i7FBwX0lbtE/s1600-h/Sivapix-0353.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 035" border="0" alt="Sivapix 035" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hJ32pg2RiRc/UAGdTxtNTbI/AAAAAAAAEs0/YmG5rDhYaMQ/Sivapix-035_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>one more interesting aspect i noticed was that the temple still had live sacrifice practice.</p> <p>i saw a cock being sacrificed</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-tGVJlP10WoY/UAGdWd-WsjI/AAAAAAAAEs8/U1lxwK2_IBk/s1600-h/Sivapix-0393.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 039" border="0" alt="Sivapix 039" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vxM1gKRWjS8/UAGdX2sQ4gI/AAAAAAAAEtE/ZMnMM7K3vi8/Sivapix-039_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>and a goat waiting for its turn.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-X2l91j7N7NI/UAGdaqbr4zI/AAAAAAAAEtM/C3VH2Bxkqn8/s1600-h/Sivapix-0413.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 041" border="0" alt="Sivapix 041" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kkRzenJwBbI/UAGdbz6P2bI/AAAAAAAAEtU/kX25moEBLV8/Sivapix-041_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> a more graphic picture not included in this post – in order not to hurt the readers’ feelings.</p> <p>this was happening on the side – in a secluded area – and it seemed to be quite matter of fact for most of the pilgrims / visitors.</p> <p>along the road noticed the three-door style of buildings, which seemed characteristic of the region.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-mnSJXOse5ko/UAGdf36FZ1I/AAAAAAAAEtc/tEIjZ72cdpM/s1600-h/Sivapix-0553.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 055" border="0" alt="Sivapix 055" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sYdgw-H_ZNY/UAGdhqEYEaI/AAAAAAAAEtk/AhCPdejIt5o/Sivapix-055_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>it was also nice to see children getting back from school in a playful mood – maybe they did not have any homework for the evening.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-v0KoRlbC6vo/UAGdlmXR_XI/AAAAAAAAEts/JDG2Wsqmga0/s1600-h/DSCN06993.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0699" border="0" alt="DSCN0699" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_-aWa6LttLA/UAGdnI1K3cI/AAAAAAAAEt0/GINQJhZYWlA/DSCN0699_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-u0gdpPoXVcw/UAGdqOvI64I/AAAAAAAAEt8/v3pSmaBhdGE/s1600-h/Sivapix-0513.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 051" border="0" alt="Sivapix 051" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ev5H-wySids/UAGdsCeUW5I/AAAAAAAAEuE/l-7z5IYtGEQ/Sivapix-051_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>on the way back, the bus driver’s assistant was responding to requests from some passengers to have a bio break, saying that when he buys a bus, a TATA bus, he would have a restroom and a smoking room also set up!</p> <p>The first experience of the famed Kathmandu traffic jams [or slowdowns] in the evening added to the anxiety of some, due to which the driver was forced to make a brief stop at a public toilet.</p> <p>little did we know about the [non] availability of such facilities during the rest of our travel..</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-80933064038587495522012-07-14T21:15:00.001+05:302012-07-14T21:15:51.154+05:30day 3 – Tatopani<p> </p> <p>after a long day to Mankamna, we were all set to start at 6 AM <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-216g6nYLpeY/UAGTWobKOQI/AAAAAAAAElg/tKWoErroRJU/s1600-h/DSCN07043.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0704" border="0" alt="DSCN0704" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-rY7jcvqMuTE/UAGTX0l859I/AAAAAAAAElo/mEHCrbHYhSE/DSCN0704_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>, with a packed breakfast – as we needed to cover the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swayambhunath" target="_blank">swayambhu temple</a> complex, with its <a href="http://holeinthedonut.com/2012/06/08/photo-all-seeing-eyes-swayambhu-temple-kathmandu-nepal/" target="_blank">central stupa</a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4z9a-7a9RYM/UAGTaDQ7zuI/AAAAAAAAElw/ZJ4Rtx3-Dq4/s1600-h/Sivapix-0703.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 070" border="0" alt="Sivapix 070" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lJF_5JR4Bb0/UAGTbus5UeI/AAAAAAAAEl4/FmLWozBQKXY/Sivapix-070_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LuU0m1qfrTU/UAGTc46XvdI/AAAAAAAAEmA/OyxB5dwsY94/s1600-h/Sivapix-0673.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 067" border="0" alt="Sivapix 067" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hr9XcdgIp-E/UAGTeCxKqeI/AAAAAAAAEmE/a-JvuLLCjm8/Sivapix-067_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aeOKENCjXsc/UAGTgl2MjhI/AAAAAAAAEmQ/zdXHgN3VFEY/s1600-h/Sivapix-0683.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 068" border="0" alt="Sivapix 068" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ARSFrwKWjDE/UAGTiJdSTWI/AAAAAAAAEmY/drHDd6clpaM/Sivapix-068_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iWxzqJuQzrw/UAGTkXUj7LI/AAAAAAAAEmg/tdIRn9q5Wyo/s1600-h/Sivapix-0693.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 069" border="0" alt="Sivapix 069" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7QsS-QqWaiU/UAGTlsz6aPI/AAAAAAAAEmo/92S3rGtrz8U/Sivapix-069_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vc6JXWGZEa4/UAGTnmK3moI/AAAAAAAAEmw/v6_aR-4qQoY/s1600-h/Sivapix-0723.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 072" border="0" alt="Sivapix 072" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-stQhY4qWA3Y/UAGTqQP9QvI/AAAAAAAAEm4/8EEo9tHA9rE/Sivapix-072_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-bhGRUwcWPlw/UAGTsDdhstI/AAAAAAAAEnA/c-orsavAilc/s1600-h/02-swayambhu-53.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="02 swayambhu 5" border="0" alt="02 swayambhu 5" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ajE0oucnFKU/UAGTtK8-HGI/AAAAAAAAEnE/Qb9pSyQ_iYw/02-swayambhu-5_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>we also visited the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guhyeshwari_Temple" target="_blank">Guhyeswari temple</a>, an old temple and a heritage site – where no photos are allowed.</p> <p>through a connecting path that took us through more archaeological heritage locations, we reached the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pashupatinath_Temple" target="_blank">pasupathinath temple</a>. </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-E0ZQNDtRYVw/UAGTwDlWywI/AAAAAAAAEnQ/CPgnlNKQOLM/s1600-h/WP_0002253.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000225" border="0" alt="WP_000225" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Mag2B4H_jIU/UAGTxPLPA1I/AAAAAAAAEnU/5i5I6EwiC0k/WP_000225_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Dz384Acrxfk/UAGTyz9AHGI/AAAAAAAAEng/v3-pp2kJFQE/s1600-h/WP_0002263.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000226" border="0" alt="WP_000226" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-haKF4v6ZNPE/UAGT0JC_s0I/AAAAAAAAEno/VFYsLnQzPRs/WP_000226_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p align="center">the cremation area adjacent to the temple was not crowded, but very dirty.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vKmfC5Zpxok/UAGT3NCpulI/AAAAAAAAEnw/KDj-bI9REWc/s1600-h/WP_0002273.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="WP_000227" border="0" alt="WP_000227" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4HHBnWdm-Mw/UAGT4ax2dpI/AAAAAAAAEn4/1m9gCisF6nM/WP_000227_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>we then set out for another long ride on a narrow road <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YHr5jkD_8Co/UAGT6hQQ_xI/AAAAAAAAEoA/IlYVybkxM48/s1600-h/Sivapix-0813.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 081" border="0" alt="Sivapix 081" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-l88Xxoll5qc/UAGT8K2Z3eI/AAAAAAAAEoI/WNbglFCBOR8/Sivapix-081_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> which was in a pretty bad shape – btw, i thought that this road [as with many others in this region could have been the reason the metric system had to be invented.</p> <p>you needed a smaller measure than an ‘inch’ to make roads that were just wide enough for two vehicles that needed a lot of patience and skill to manoeuvre slowly to make progress! </p> <p>after the initial apprehensions in the group related to whether the trip will go as per plan, most of the members were now feeling more comfortable – to the extent that there were discussions of being ‘one large family’ and about how adjustments will be needed to make sure that all of us complete the tour happily!</p> <p>Tatopani – meaning hot water – is just before the border town of kodari, where we needed to cross over to China.</p> <p>to beat the rush at the immigration line and be there early morning, our plan was to halt at tatopani – on the banks of the Kosi river <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_GZxavCA7GY/UAGT95EY54I/AAAAAAAAEoQ/J-L-V9FvTig/s1600-h/Sivapix-0893.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 089" border="0" alt="Sivapix 089" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ED_VVE-ybL8/UAGT_PUxqLI/AAAAAAAAEoY/xgPxzXFdeMM/Sivapix-089_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a>– overnight, at a guest house overlooking a school on the banks of the river <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ob2hOTVQXcM/UAGUB7-d6hI/AAAAAAAAEog/C9zZZFXGnxY/s1600-h/DSCN07353.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0735" border="0" alt="DSCN0735" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-b89oBtj_BAw/UAGUDu3glGI/AAAAAAAAEoo/sHMQRLqAQGM/DSCN0735_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>have a refreshing hot spa bath in the morning before crossing the border.</p> <p>that, we were told, could be our good refreshing bath for the next few days – possibly till we got back!</p> <p>the leisurely stroll along the road in the evening <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Omnu9DRWU4o/UAGUFnq5bXI/AAAAAAAAEow/Pyp4uP5Nyds/s1600-h/DSCN07383.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0738" border="0" alt="DSCN0738" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-O7l1OwSZKrQ/UAGUHEdNYHI/AAAAAAAAEo4/RqeMl8OThOc/DSCN0738_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a> and the parroting girls <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CoEYcx1ppEM/UAGUJnnHuII/AAAAAAAAEpA/6Gm1jKZlN10/s1600-h/Sivapix-0923.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 092" border="0" alt="Sivapix 092" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Q-QfsvdWqH4/UAGUKz1WwII/AAAAAAAAEpE/XRy8ueH3feI/Sivapix-092_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>, who seemed to be amused at the term ‘saappadu’ that they kept repeating that loudly as they did other phrases that they could hear, were some other diversions and gave us the ‘local’ experience of tatopani.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-265314738930555712012-07-14T20:57:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:57:02.546+05:30day 4 – nyalam<p> </p> <p>after a refreshing morning hot spring bath and breakfast, we reached the border and the ‘friendship bridge’ <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-g2kjSJFk6GI/UAGOxaDyGKI/AAAAAAAAEgU/uOQyMb-1rs0/s1600-h/Sivapix-0993.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 099" border="0" alt="Sivapix 099" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vYRobEZXOcc/UAGOysQifsI/AAAAAAAAEgc/r-YvHku2FGY/Sivapix-099_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>.<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GrAdMs2Xt6o/UAGO0wzPXSI/AAAAAAAAEgk/DoQNAixWYAQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-1003.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 100" border="0" alt="Sivapix 100" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4psr_PLrJuk/UAGO1_8wSHI/AAAAAAAAEgs/p7wFVFKCL4w/Sivapix-100_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>after a wait for a couple of hours, completed immigration. while we waited, we saw that all our bags and other materials for our trip were being carried by porters on their backs – young and old, men and women – including one with 2 kids, one in a pouch on the front and another sitting on her head – across the customs counters.</p> <p>our land cruisers were waiting on the other side and groups of four were allocated to each vehicle.</p> <p>our driver – Shi Lin - <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Lig1i2z7oBQ/UAGO3gJZtuI/AAAAAAAAEg0/FYDACP8RGvE/s1600-h/DSCN08313.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0831" border="0" alt="DSCN0831" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kRRSfm46UFI/UAGO4mLk3aI/AAAAAAAAEg8/pyzq9yHdDOs/DSCN0831_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> opened the doors for us and went missing.</p> <p>as we saw most other vehicles leave, suddenly one person who was bare chested came running, and started the vehicle and started driving.</p> <p>when I tried to tell him that our driver was different – he just said lunch!</p> <p>we reached a Chinese restaurant in Zhangmu – a couple of kilometers from the border – and had Indian food! till then, i have only had Chinese food @ Indian restaurants!</p> <p>by the time we got back from lunch, Shi Lin was back, taking us through the narrow, crowded street of Zhangmu. also noticed an improvised cart as a trailer of a motorcycle.</p> <p>and a volksYagen!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-adKo8YqtwEs/UAGO7knKTmI/AAAAAAAAEhE/OPL1zLMWfUI/s1600-h/Sivapix-1083.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 108" border="0" alt="Sivapix 108" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-z3P9dkuDO-8/UAGO89iqMdI/AAAAAAAAEhM/9ci96iI6WTg/Sivapix-108_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-py4FfGL7Enk/UAGO_v4HFWI/AAAAAAAAEhU/V_HwyMiWkL4/s1600-h/Sivapix-5083.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 508" border="0" alt="Sivapix 508" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fI2nqg00pOA/UAGPA2OYEUI/AAAAAAAAEhc/ePmL4fTq3E0/Sivapix-508_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xmESc1gQqtA/UAGPDLcBVbI/AAAAAAAAEhk/kYQjHoDBf5s/s1600-h/Sivapix-5093.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 509" border="0" alt="Sivapix 509" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-j90h79B64z8/UAGPED-eoEI/AAAAAAAAEhs/eoxP6eFZyfc/Sivapix-509_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-O92kmraS9T0/UAGPHT3_A2I/AAAAAAAAEh0/K0bnyViqnQM/s1600-h/Sivapix-1043.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 104" border="0" alt="Sivapix 104" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-q-kTmu15Lpk/UAGPIZ7TuyI/AAAAAAAAEh8/AJQq_D-Qs8s/Sivapix-104_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-v8WhZpCrCL4/UAGPKeoWbWI/AAAAAAAAEiE/SMuOcnnCKxw/s1600-h/Sivapix-1053.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 105" border="0" alt="Sivapix 105" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5socWoRDVOM/UAGPLhXJpWI/AAAAAAAAEiM/OTYamEEL-wg/Sivapix-105_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>Shi Lin seemed to be the most popular person in town, as he stopped or was stopped every few feet to talk to someone or exchanges some stuff – such as keys..</p> <p>later we realized that Shi Lin was a kind of the leader of the convoy – always impatient if he is not the first.. and others giving him way, whenever he tried to overtake.. </p> <p>and he would first go to the police check posts to get the paperwork completed.</p> <p>Nyalam was a few hours and a climb of about 8000 feet from Tatopani – at about 12,000 feet.</p> <p>our first high altitude stop.</p> <p>breathing was normal – but deep breathing, which i thought would make it easier, took effort – and made me gasp at times.</p> <p>on a leisurely walk on the streets of nyalam, noticed that there was an internet phone – @ 3 Yuan per minute to call India, compared to 100 Yuan per minute to receive and 150 Yuan to make calls on a roaming India SIM!</p> <p>other things we saw included some (Yak) dung pellets, local ‘bakery’ food items and also a cow on the road!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-i99wCZtxKAU/UAGPOF47udI/AAAAAAAAEiU/hXnZ7RuBNSg/s1600-h/Sivapix-1186.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 118" border="0" alt="Sivapix 118" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yMc4tzkuhrw/UAGPPasKZGI/AAAAAAAAEic/QUCAyff5efw/Sivapix-118_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-v8klTIEq9-k/UAGPReC3KbI/AAAAAAAAEik/UJDzgyQw180/s1600-h/Sivapix-1176.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 117" border="0" alt="Sivapix 117" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ohucNbZF6NY/UAGPSkpPP8I/AAAAAAAAEis/DKpvsoZeePw/Sivapix-117_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EENKIOFxsBg/UAGPU3wyxFI/AAAAAAAAEi0/s94xn7Glm8g/s1600-h/Sivapix-1166.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 116" border="0" alt="Sivapix 116" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-APRUcEh52eE/UAGPWKDgK8I/AAAAAAAAEi8/BZiMIoI9DeI/Sivapix-116_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>After what appeared to be restful sleep, it was just 2 hours into the night.</p> <p>incessant barking of dogs for almost 2 hours kept me awake.</p> <p>The place we stayed at had dormitory – read small rooms packed with as many beds as possible [ours had 4, with barely any room for our duffel bags and moving around!] – and a common toilet.</p> <p>fortunately, that had water [stored in drums]. since they were few in number, decided that contra times would help and decided to finish all toilet work by 2 AM local time [2.5 hours ahead of IST].</p> <p>we stayed at Nyalam for 2 nights, being also an acclimatization location.</p> <p>the morning was surprisingly cool, much less cold than what i had anticipated.</p> <p>i prepared myself to go for the intro trek after breakfast. I was told by one of the fellow travellers that this would be an activity where all of us would be observed and an informal assessment of which ones would be able to complete the parikrama comfortably and who would have difficulty – and those that should not even attempt!</p> <p>earlier in the morning, came to know that one of the group members had some breathing trouble during the night and needed to be administered oxygen. not sure if she would be asked to return or not proceed to higher altitudes.</p> <p>we did approx. 2.2 KM with a rise of about 200 m in about an hour and thirty minutes.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_fI6GxhgAl8/UAGPY2tvzoI/AAAAAAAAEjE/XQoidT0UOvY/s1600-h/Sivapix-1223.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 122" border="0" alt="Sivapix 122" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-O0ooQE4z-As/UAGPZ_dNvHI/AAAAAAAAEjM/0P3FkXHIAE4/Sivapix-122_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uoyvhqefWOQ/UAGPbutl8lI/AAAAAAAAEjU/T7qlCg4fGfU/s1600-h/Sivapix-1253.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 125" border="0" alt="Sivapix 125" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Myjlsh8K35k/UAGPdFsmU2I/AAAAAAAAEjc/b9VWpBHYIEg/Sivapix-125_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2yCPtpTSKvk/UAGPgLHIgLI/AAAAAAAAEjk/u0sxiHQSIPI/s1600-h/Sivapix-1273.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 127" border="0" alt="Sivapix 127" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Iv3NJBJlodU/UAGPiYfQpFI/AAAAAAAAEjs/HctVMOXj2O4/Sivapix-127_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GyiGkcZOUec/UAGPlTChN5I/AAAAAAAAEj0/ClJVSD-JbD4/s1600-h/Sivapix-1283.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 128" border="0" alt="Sivapix 128" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8cE0wHqC7xQ/UAGPm2Bn1hI/AAAAAAAAEj8/9k_ZgRSDY2A/Sivapix-128_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>my head started aching slightly and at a few spots felt as if it would be better to return. but seeing the youngsters – about 9 and 12 as well as some senior members of the group make it easily, decided to keep pushing myself.</p> <p>the view from the top and the snacks brought by many made the climb worth it!</p> <p>i noticed many small flat stones piled up – like in the game of lagori.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Nzfz40LvEgI/UAGPp_DOPmI/AAAAAAAAEkE/FfwYdbaNRhM/s1600-h/Sivapix-1363.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 136" border="0" alt="Sivapix 136" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-WepLEvviPhk/UAGPrBEV5TI/AAAAAAAAEkM/8fYSRDPq38E/Sivapix-136_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left">i piled some as well – when i was told that it is a Tibetan custom to please our ancestors.</p> <p align="left">then the tension about getting down started.. my fear of heights was starting to play up. luckily, the descent was a different path that was not so treacherous. Oh what a feeling to reach back the main road!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JBv6QJf5RBs/UAGPtzYpqQI/AAAAAAAAEkU/pDyN0d5OgsA/s1600-h/DSCN07733.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0773" border="0" alt="DSCN0773" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fhmAOyo2wpY/UAGPxGtDgPI/AAAAAAAAEkc/BvKMw1_veAw/DSCN0773_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left">a quick check by many of us with the sherpa and also our group leader – with great anticipation – whether we passed the test – gave us all smiles, as we were all told that we should be able to do the parikrama.</p> <p align="left">Another heavy lunch, with cut [Kathmandu] mangoes and hot soup in the evening..</p> <p align="left">had a quick pranayama class, conducted by one of the group members who is a trained teacher.</p> <p align="left">during a post dinner walk, we saw 3 girls playing a different game of skipping. 2 girls standing on 2 sides with strings tied to their legs, slowly rising. the third girl jumps, rather dances between the strips, avoiding the strips from touching her legs. if it touches, that girl has to go to one side and the other girl comes to the middle.</p> <p align="left">tomorrow is expected to be a long drive – to paryang, that will help us get to mansarovar the next day earlier. this was one more change to the original plan.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-23674847792206682822012-07-14T20:48:00.001+05:302012-07-15T09:14:28.519+05:30day 5–paryang<br />
you may not find much info about paryang, except that it is a small village in the middle of nowhere in Tibet – because, that is what it is!<br />
it is of significance to most Kailas / mansarovar yatris because it is situated at a convenient mid point, for a stopover on an otherwise long and boring drive from the Border or towns like saga.<br />
the day started with a hot bath at Nyalam – for 10 Yuan – at a public bath across the street from where we stayed.<br />
the drive was a long one, but the excellent road made it easier.<br />
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yjQWug8HNJM/UAGNQp56mWI/AAAAAAAAEdU/Xb-sUh_ns_w/s1600-h/Sivapix-1483.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 148" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XPdDQCt1ZPI/UAGNSOOBtxI/AAAAAAAAEdc/Yeb06TbE9N0/Sivapix-148_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 148" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bejNkJCX6VM/UAGNT6uT3mI/AAAAAAAAEdk/UV5z9972_8E/s1600-h/Sivapix-1573.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 157" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SUvoQNUKMrA/UAGNVYo0mLI/AAAAAAAAEds/0_1HtbagAF8/Sivapix-157_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 157" width="244" /></a><br />
we had stopped briefly at a place called saga, to have lunch.<br />
got a taste of local ice cream, a choco-bar. tasted good.<br />
the road was winding in places, climbing and descending at others. at one point, we touched 16,000 feet – as shown by my Nokia Navigator.<br />
i noticed that at certain points, the GPS could ‘see’ close to a dozen satellites. i wonder why so many satellites over a rather sparsely or uninhabited territory – your guess might be better than mine!<br />
this, along with the good roads probably indicate the strategic significance of this region.<br />
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<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TOVLPaTtQ1c/UAGNX_LG_sI/AAAAAAAAEd0/6kZ2QLBTN2k/s1600-h/Sivapix-1453.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 145" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zaoInCHx98s/UAGNZMizykI/AAAAAAAAEd8/Vj8-NwPVfRs/Sivapix-145_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 145" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ib6MS7zuQiU/UAGNbIUO4aI/AAAAAAAAEeE/rBIllgF55uk/s1600-h/Sivapix-1543.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 154" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eg3W7yLcs_k/UAGNcjgYIjI/AAAAAAAAEeM/lxbeBRUHlwY/Sivapix-154_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 154" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qbINoZtY29E/UAGNfK6YxLI/AAAAAAAAEeU/86omQX2ohVI/s1600-h/Sivapix-1613.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 161" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8GvFq793RIc/UAGNgI13yrI/AAAAAAAAEec/DOF_BMIlDic/Sivapix-161_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 161" width="244" /></a></div>
a large water body, the piku lake – presented some photo ops and a break for the drivers<br />
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<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rHMeev0byVI/UAGNiagbgWI/AAAAAAAAEek/_vOtad9ktjU/s1600-h/Sivapix-1673.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 167" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-rIuIzmSOq0c/UAGNjZD6-QI/AAAAAAAAEes/V5Xq9hnUb6w/Sivapix-167_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 167" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7zNtyHE_mr0/UAGNldKzheI/AAAAAAAAEe0/wfeFJzpFwgY/s1600-h/Sivapix-1693.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 169" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3rNhJ2GRmFo/UAGNmoNw-ZI/AAAAAAAAEe8/ajwVqku8YEY/Sivapix-169_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 169" width="244" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uxFFmbilLhc/UAGNpU7WxPI/AAAAAAAAEfE/1HB_qAvu3Xk/s1600-h/Sivapix-1883.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 188" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5Nt6bg1NSY8/UAGNqlL-chI/AAAAAAAAEfM/83OV7Nr6W5I/Sivapix-188_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 188" width="244" /></a></div>
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we were back on the winding road <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-kKQFso0GnIc/UAGNtkI_FfI/AAAAAAAAEfU/lWPWvMBjFYQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-1803.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 180" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DZfagMFlDZE/UAGNukH5yTI/AAAAAAAAEfc/YoteOPy898g/Sivapix-180_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 180" width="244" /></a> and good paved road <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8ulVga4cDGs/UAGNwfKgR8I/AAAAAAAAEfk/Rma9U0oqLuA/s1600-h/Sivapix-1943.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 194" border="0" height="244" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qhJMH4LSQpk/UAGNxNhTyII/AAAAAAAAEfs/6cTwLLMuMGg/Sivapix-194_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 194" width="184" /></a> till we reached our destination. as i mentioned, the excellent roads made travel very comfortable. but, talking of comfort, paryang was also our first ‘exposure’ to living with minimum urban comforts.</div>
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while the roads have improved significantly over the last few years – based on the stories of other visitors to this region – the basic hygiene infrastructure has a lot to improve.</div>
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paryang-in-the-middle-of-nowhere is very beautiful. the evening rainbow <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-bgPle7jM4Ds/UAGNyjuHCqI/AAAAAAAAEf0/Oqnbed799Xk/s1600-h/Sivapix-1993.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 199" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZX6ik86-cYk/UAGNz9PF9JI/AAAAAAAAEf8/BLW8LKLaqkM/Sivapix-199_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 199" width="244" /></a> and the mesmerizing sunset <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XPvga9eQmVw/UAGN1MJjnLI/AAAAAAAAEgE/yyTm0BZsTIc/s1600-h/Sivapix-2003.jpg"><img alt="Sivapix 200" border="0" height="244" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-bONz1nriWCQ/UAGN27F6aKI/AAAAAAAAEgM/DzDpi_G3dww/Sivapix-200_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="Sivapix 200" width="184" /></a> added to the charm</div>
but that did not make up for the lack of toilets, as we are used to. where you find them, they are few in number [to the number of visitors that they need to cater to]; by default, they do not have running water. as you get more interior, the toilets become dryer – and hardly maintained.<br />
we needed to prepare ourselves to get comfortable to take care of such matters out in the open – and finding a suitable secluded spot with some privacy cover was a new game we had to learn! while men have less inhibitions or are less sensitive about relieving themselves in the open, it becomes more sensitive and complex for women. you think you have found a good spot, behind a sand dune or a building etc, only to discover as you get closer that the other side is fully open!<br />
simple principles of not p***ing against the wind came to us instinctively. using the jacket or a plastic bag [with toilet paper, sanitizer, wipes etc] to judge the direction of the wind was an innovation – but i am sure others also would have used / tried similar techniques – though not documented in a travellers tips or manual!<br />
sunset was around 10 PM local time..<br />
during the long drive, our driver played some Tibetan and nepali music with video. most of the songs seemed to be sung by males and around themes of nature, wildlife, some folk customs / festivals with simple dance movements.<br />
even though the songs were repeated many times during our travel, not knowing the language – i could not relate to them or remember the words.<br />
except <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbWy_ufC9VI" target="_blank">one nepali song</a>, that i could locate based on some repeated words..Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-61948138622193589502012-07-14T20:43:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:43:39.910+05:30day 6–mansarovar<p> </p> <p>As we were driving along the monotonous road, Shi Lin suddenly said ‘mansadoba’ and it took me a few seconds to figure out he was pointing to Mansarovar! the first glimpse of mansarovar from the road was a strange feeling – that we were at the first main spot of our journey!</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nJ1fgUZHbr0/UAGK40tpC1I/AAAAAAAAEaU/VVIBd63Fb48/s1600-h/Sivapix-2153.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 215" border="0" alt="Sivapix 215" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-lHl2b8qWMdA/UAGK57z9zRI/AAAAAAAAEac/J1Cz-YEUTJ8/Sivapix-215_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left">as we got closer, the expanse was more clearly visible.</p> <p align="center"> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--TlR14pCIoA/UAGK7q8q4nI/AAAAAAAAEak/YVg9oGU_8Jc/s1600-h/DSCN08303.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0830" border="0" alt="DSCN0830" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_3zVGO6j8ZU/UAGK8nXCcpI/AAAAAAAAEas/lDfwYqy7DhU/DSCN0830_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BUmrEyjuC84/UAGK_K8nC_I/AAAAAAAAEa0/YQw-OBDDXKA/s1600-h/Sivapix-2193.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 219" border="0" alt="Sivapix 219" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BCiGXQeZNjU/UAGLALDwlzI/AAAAAAAAEa8/_OYMijIiCVo/Sivapix-219_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left">it was a rather sunny and hot afternoon and the water was very pleasant to take a dip in.</p> <p align="left">i took multiple dips – and since it was quite shallow, had to pretty much prostrate in order to wet my head. reciting some slokas and mantras, i did not realize how much time i was in the water, till someone called out my name and said that i had spent more than 20 minutes in the water and that i should come out.</p> <p align="left">not only did i lose track of time, but also had a special feeling that that i cannot easily describe in words.</p> <p align="left">as we walked along the shores after lunch, could see clouds gathering.</p> <p align="left"> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-CWARyoCmfmE/UAGLCcP9NCI/AAAAAAAAEbE/UOkqUfpRdc0/s1600-h/Sivapix-2373.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 237" border="0" alt="Sivapix 237" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ylOPDFEQ3Yg/UAGLDaxV_lI/AAAAAAAAEbM/6ttYJaz2nF0/Sivapix-237_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-p1ER2wMyb4k/UAGLFnOl5fI/AAAAAAAAEbU/XtqlTXhooq0/s1600-h/Sivapix-2353.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 235" border="0" alt="Sivapix 235" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EaqN9Alz4BM/UAGLGvjWJRI/AAAAAAAAEbc/VOu5VbhVtaE/Sivapix-235_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> and a lot of garbage dumped along..</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-MszDHbmJUUo/UAGLKG0lf3I/AAAAAAAAEbk/LiVpHhpy9vI/s1600-h/DSCN08443.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0844" border="0" alt="DSCN0844" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RpUDx5naMNk/UAGLLt4GFiI/AAAAAAAAEbs/_IF2ac93VnI/DSCN0844_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0wVoZ6ZPwEs/UAGLN91HV_I/AAAAAAAAEb0/9Ivm7yTM7rM/s1600-h/DSCN08453.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0845" border="0" alt="DSCN0845" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_GgANVrDyzY/UAGLO4vGc5I/AAAAAAAAEb8/Py3DBv9NdUg/DSCN0845_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-u8YWs4Z4JWQ/UAGLSV2XybI/AAAAAAAAEcE/NZ0Ezx1w0a8/s1600-h/DSCN08463.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0846" border="0" alt="DSCN0846" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Kop6TYvvVTk/UAGLT1_XSXI/AAAAAAAAEcM/8sDfaieKBlw/DSCN0846_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-qc-vQ-KP3ZI/UAGLX6H_BLI/AAAAAAAAEcU/rX8RMeg28P0/s1600-h/DSCN08473.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0847" border="0" alt="DSCN0847" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0xrawUUn_EM/UAGLZAdGMNI/AAAAAAAAEcc/rsQ4-Vg0YPM/DSCN0847_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ao-DwE5wenc/UAGLcfS6pxI/AAAAAAAAEck/C34dfrYavY4/s1600-h/DSCN08483.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0848" border="0" alt="DSCN0848" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sxhhOEeP7eI/UAGLdQLVRnI/AAAAAAAAEcs/NWNJ_bfniIE/DSCN0848_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left"> </p> <p align="left">later part of the evening saw some pujas being performed on the lakeshore</p> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rNLb06ADiiI/UAGLe71dpjI/AAAAAAAAEc0/uI-mYxy1S50/s1600-h/Sivapix-2433.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 243" border="0" alt="Sivapix 243" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3LooJQgqt9Y/UAGLiRPER2I/AAAAAAAAEc8/x8lU6gY1UQM/Sivapix-243_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p align="left">the evening abisheka gave us the first taste of the mansarovar cold.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zeqOEQxq6-c/UAGMndJQZTI/AAAAAAAAEdE/rPJFV61ytPg/s1600-h/Sivapix-2423.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 242" border="0" alt="Sivapix 242" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-m-GuePyw-9s/UAGMogoWXAI/AAAAAAAAEdM/XYp3FGGGklw/Sivapix-242_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> as the sun set, one could feel the cold wind.</p> <p align="left">the night was very cold – feeling particularly cold due to the contrast in the temperature from the warm afternoon.</p> <p align="left">though a tent was set up on the shore for those who wanted to watch the divine lights, i decided against venturing out due to the cold, though i had set up the alarm.</p> <p align="left">some of the persons who went said that they saw stars, ganesha, rambha (!) et al as images. one of them, who carried his camera, was disappointed that he was not allowed to take a picture – as the others said that it was not good manners to take a picture of someone bathing.. so no pictures..</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-4025435426476201052012-07-14T20:34:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:34:31.324+05:30day 7 – darchen / ashtapad<p> </p> <p>we started the mansarovar parikrama by land.</p> <p>the initial portion had no proper road <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mM2dKB_buEQ/UAGJbeyMPnI/AAAAAAAAEVw/ibU-eShWnes/s1600-h/Sivapix-2473.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 247" border="0" alt="Sivapix 247" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AayapQRLWt4/UAGJcovWdJI/AAAAAAAAEV4/s0HlWhmUaUk/Sivapix-247_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hxbCb7sA-zI/UAGJee5ZwKI/AAAAAAAAEWA/kor17DokR3U/s1600-h/Sivapix-2533.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 253" border="0" alt="Sivapix 253" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9MQRv0RBvSM/UAGJgMwrO0I/AAAAAAAAEWI/ZBJ7tYUmq40/Sivapix-253_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>the first stop was a spot to fill water from the lake. this spot had more pebbles and stones – and the usual Tibetan stacks of stones.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Tn8ObGyZHk4/UAGJisnazfI/AAAAAAAAEWQ/yIIr6pOCVEQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-2583.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 258" border="0" alt="Sivapix 258" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-D-OV-rv435A/UAGJkL7Zd0I/AAAAAAAAEWY/7WIehm0TAVI/Sivapix-258_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MUX9eyKWXkI/UAGJnWnhOXI/AAAAAAAAEWg/HWXYKk2rGeg/s1600-h/Sivapix-2593.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 259" border="0" alt="Sivapix 259" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Lovc0L3LWxk/UAGJo3Bcn4I/AAAAAAAAEWo/cMNuJPiEUAY/Sivapix-259_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>some persons also picked up some of the pebbles.</p> <p>next stop : Tru Gompa</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ySFFq37BBXA/UAGJrkaoCBI/AAAAAAAAEWw/QcLsQ38NHVQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-2613.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 261" border="0" alt="Sivapix 261" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--s20LOU6lvw/UAGJuZzYb0I/AAAAAAAAEW4/phn27Gei4FY/Sivapix-261_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HToa1JOBeg0/UAGJw6HUb0I/AAAAAAAAEXA/CNzcPoW4ImY/s1600-h/DSCN08613.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0861" border="0" alt="DSCN0861" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Kwb1JlvqqKI/UAGJyEDn1FI/AAAAAAAAEXI/Jn77KaagJC8/DSCN0861_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Wh-755vR9x0/UAGJ0NnwQcI/AAAAAAAAEXQ/N4BdWij0uFk/s1600-h/DSCN08633.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0863" border="0" alt="DSCN0863" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-J-gB5bcvVFA/UAGJ1hoNnfI/AAAAAAAAEXY/xR0P73yvGaA/DSCN0863_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CBom6HhdCt0/UAGJ3nVrQZI/AAAAAAAAEXg/vK8u0CCs2nc/s1600-h/DSCN08653.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0865" border="0" alt="DSCN0865" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-i0012X_Pb0A/UAGJ5aNz_pI/AAAAAAAAEXo/-Dimk9Wgaic/DSCN0865_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>and onwards to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Rakshastal" target="_blank">Rakshas Tal</a>.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-DzugtwLanLE/UAGJ7k3ycDI/AAAAAAAAEXw/8tGLkbolF3A/s1600-h/DSCN08783.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0878" border="0" alt="DSCN0878" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Fz2w73ng9x8/UAGJ9ASL4lI/AAAAAAAAEX4/2JhZZj8HEfU/DSCN0878_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UfvcfDRJFJ0/UAGJ_Alr9yI/AAAAAAAAEYA/A_HYiQ5xTs0/s1600-h/Sivapix-2763.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 276" border="0" alt="Sivapix 276" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CUg3HptC5nI/UAGKAt7_z6I/AAAAAAAAEYI/akcTo4pVwtY/Sivapix-276_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>and reached Darchen.</p> <p>and the first close view of the south face of Kailas. </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mkcJpS2-c48/UAGKCzjri-I/AAAAAAAAEYQ/tTGJgZ3lnmE/s1600-h/DSCN08903.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0890" border="0" alt="DSCN0890" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-i782RUqDH6Y/UAGKEITj_nI/AAAAAAAAEYY/kre30ZYJCyc/DSCN0890_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>thanks to Anand-ji, we had an option of an upgrade to a room with attached toilet, for an additional fee. it had a flush with an Indian style WC. a tap with a removable plastic bowl / basin kept on a steel rack.</p> <p>this bowl is a common way of using / conserving water in that region. we could not figure out the best way of using that. a notice put up on the bathroom door reminded us of how precious water is. <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gZz_B9vbDfE/UAGKGL9vA3I/AAAAAAAAEYg/BNjbziUaVXI/s1600-h/Sivapix-3293.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 329" border="0" alt="Sivapix 329" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-o7DzEpb9mgw/UAGKHrncFGI/AAAAAAAAEYo/UyUmujpYEOI/Sivapix-329_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>the room also had a heater, powered by steam / hot water that was centrally connected and controlled – and the room felt warm at night. but anyway, the outside temperature was also not as cold as at mansarovar.</p> <p>later in the evening, we drove up to a place called ashtapad on non-existent roads.</p> <p>across a river and some ice..</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0hDFVzapviA/UAGKJuwSDVI/AAAAAAAAEYw/fsk4Ki5_YjA/s1600-h/Sivapix-2853.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 285" border="0" alt="Sivapix 285" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-dzdy3LJhAF0/UAGKLZWIZzI/AAAAAAAAEY4/cEXr-PKH7X0/Sivapix-285_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4d2W9siG6fM/UAGKNKxLf4I/AAAAAAAAEZE/w4IBLeEhsnQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-2873.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 287" border="0" alt="Sivapix 287" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UtZpsm0BtGQ/UAGKOyloioI/AAAAAAAAEZM/M1jonsiLxaA/Sivapix-287_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>we got a very good view of the south face – dakshinamurthy, Nandi and Ashtapad hills.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--P-zfRfKVZM/UAGKQsJ5fyI/AAAAAAAAEZU/KxRCeIL8Leo/s1600-h/Sivapix-2923.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 292" border="0" alt="Sivapix 292" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3wcsOprnU7o/UAGKSNzgoSI/AAAAAAAAEZc/MmV4h68PO44/Sivapix-292_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p align="center">some of us went for a small hike on a nearby hill, while some others were performing the same puja [as @ mansarovar the previous day].<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AFyMD0-eFO0/UAGKU5YIUUI/AAAAAAAAEZk/9OL7Ddmsa9E/s1600-h/DSCN08943.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0894" border="0" alt="DSCN0894" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IR78W6u7c8A/UAGKW_fTWeI/AAAAAAAAEZs/UB38bUDpyRk/DSCN0894_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p align="left">we also saw some prairie dogs, which were not afraid of humans being so close by..</p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JxfiIOxWt5M/UAGKaKLIHHI/AAAAAAAAEZ0/Epq-77Y5NLk/s1600-h/Sivapix-2983.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 298" border="0" alt="Sivapix 298" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0H0nE274knI/UAGKbVuXsOI/AAAAAAAAEZ8/aq-FGtnuVkA/Sivapix-298_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-h3rXX4IJIiM/UAGKeKtoEaI/AAAAAAAAEaE/rcbq8YoJygU/s1600-h/DSCN09003.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0900" border="0" alt="DSCN0900" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-a3Y9aU2GY3c/UAGKfN3onfI/AAAAAAAAEaM/DVGtBg-pbYg/DSCN0900_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> <p>in the evening, we knew of one more change in our schedule – the planned departure for the parikrama the next morning would have to wait for one more day – as we could not get sufficient number of yaks to carry our stuff to the overnight camps.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-25382486871310424862012-07-14T20:28:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:28:25.339+05:30day 8–tirthapuri<p> </p> <p>the day is expected to be somewhat relaxed, with a program to visit tirthapuri – typically a half day program, advanced to today due the non-availability of the yaks for parikrama.</p> <p>apparently not everyone visits tirthapuri – which requires a separate permit, which may not always be granted.</p> <p>as a photo-clicking tourist visit, there were a few spots to be seen [and ticked off the check-list!].</p> <p>first was mini Kailas: <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SDMRlWFEv4k/UAGIpqXHpZI/AAAAAAAAETg/jMscsTYjgMI/s1600-h/DSCN09113.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0911" border="0" alt="DSCN0911" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fyW4fpBLk5w/UAGIq1-W50I/AAAAAAAAETo/dpJW9ETheE8/DSCN0911_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> obviously man-made, the belief was that whoever is not able to do the main parikrama can go around this mini Kailas and get the same effect.</p> <p>the next was basmasura hill: <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--MhViU9zSy4/UAGIt1W_Z7I/AAAAAAAAETw/ucg1e967bHY/s1600-h/DSCN09117.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0911" border="0" alt="DSCN0911" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MvuMb4hNhqk/UAGIvNJGvnI/AAAAAAAAET4/e3lgJbii4Lg/DSCN0911_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> the spot where basmasura was reduced to ashes. compared to the other hills around it, this was the only one that seemed to have a lot of ash!</p> <p>the next check item was the ‘assess your sin level’ hole, next to the kala chakras.</p> <p>a small hole, on which one would sit, close eyes and put a hand into the hole from one’s back and pick one stone.</p> <p>if the stone was black, it meant that you still have some sins in your baggage and coming on this visit would help dissolve them. but, if the stone you picked was white, then, all is well and you should continue to do good.</p> <p>i could not get any link to any other mythological story.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-v6HOLtYcCYE/UAGIwrK__kI/AAAAAAAAEUA/ALs54JMSA6A/s1600-h/Sivapix-3133.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 313" border="0" alt="Sivapix 313" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-WkGPXtX756w/UAGIxxKEHyI/AAAAAAAAEUI/GWeX3GyleQs/Sivapix-313_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pXXEdmhXshs/UAGI0HQbxMI/AAAAAAAAEUQ/PgMAXh_vcFc/s1600-h/Sivapix-3123.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 312" border="0" alt="Sivapix 312" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_ulTW3JGVow/UAGI1CPlGoI/AAAAAAAAEUY/M4JYZOjKv7I/Sivapix-312_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>this and the mini Kailas, seem to have the indications of making this a tourist spot..</p> <p>as we got down the hill, we saw the hot sulphur spring.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HD4ejizfAOc/UAGI3AfV6QI/AAAAAAAAEUg/9ThCeuLqRlk/s1600-h/DSCN09203.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0920" border="0" alt="DSCN0920" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rP0eVtc8onE/UAGI4LdiBVI/AAAAAAAAEUo/SesLJ_r7bAQ/DSCN0920_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YM3yJvLO_HI/UAGI6E27vsI/AAAAAAAAEUw/vJFpZd-A3gw/s1600-h/DSCN09223.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0922" border="0" alt="DSCN0922" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-DvSr28jRSP4/UAGI7FykyXI/AAAAAAAAEU4/IDZP3JiLl9w/DSCN0922_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>on the way back, we got a good views of the west and south faces of Kailas.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7bk8HdE8OdU/UAGI8iBPPzI/AAAAAAAAEVA/aMqGwOrW0rg/s1600-h/DSCN09243.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0924" border="0" alt="DSCN0924" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HhAsLzBlJ80/UAGI9n0vthI/AAAAAAAAEVI/TMb95M2KeXI/DSCN0924_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GLIDrqd2Fbw/UAGI_YWIztI/AAAAAAAAEVQ/eUwunBZ6uHE/s1600-h/DSCN09333.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0933" border="0" alt="DSCN0933" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-59wGnoDWrsk/UAGJAWlsBwI/AAAAAAAAEVY/Q72QDLr-tN4/DSCN0933_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JnkoHE33Oy0/UAGJCbfxqoI/AAAAAAAAEVg/fQx5yO4GP2Y/s1600-h/Sivapix-3283.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 328" border="0" alt="Sivapix 328" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-271mlnIDB2A/UAGJDoklyqI/AAAAAAAAEVo/-l32jf0qROg/Sivapix-328_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>back at the guest house, and darchen – some exploration and interactions with the ‘gypsies’ who sold things that were ‘cheap, no cheating’, but discovered that the prices for some of their items were so inflated, that even after bargaining, one could not be sure if the price paid was right – or could have been lower.</p> <p>the seemingly flat road outside the youth hostel made one gasp for breath, if one walked a little fast. the gradient was certainly very gradual, but raised doubts of whether we can make it to the parikrama.</p> <p>a slightly indisposed stomach – from mansarovar was also getting stabilized, along with our acclimatization. [ah! finally got to use this word, which was one of the most frequently used terms in the last few days by most of the persons]</p> <p>though there was an option of a public bath @ 20 Yuan across the street, considering the cleanliness and that we would not be able to take a bath for the next 3 days, decided to skip it.</p> <p>the bath at the hostel was open only for a limited time and was not very convenient.</p> <p>all set now for tomorrow morning.. hoping that the yaks and porters and ponies would all be there..</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-38326360174621850552012-07-14T20:24:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:24:46.666+05:30day 9–parikrama 1<p> </p> <p>the first day of parikrama. supposed to be relatively easy. about 800-900 feet elevation over 10 KM. of course, if was not a steady incline, flat mostly, but somewhat steep in small sections.</p> <p>our starting point for the trek was yamadwar;<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fihBDOY1i8A/UAGHzT6SzZI/AAAAAAAAERw/Oye8ky80B_Y/s1600-h/Sivapix-3323.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 332" border="0" alt="Sivapix 332" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KcdkbAEhZzs/UAGH1P2WwCI/AAAAAAAAER4/P3CEO6HVx8k/Sivapix-332_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> – looks like a Buddhist temple, with the associated colorful clothes hung around. many had also dropped pieces of their clothing [including some innerwear!]</p> <p>after going around and chanting the mrityunjaya mantra, everyone sets off on the parikrama, which starts from about 2 KM from here.</p> <p>we had decided to hire porters to carry our back packs, to reduce the strain and also ensure that there is some help on day 2, particularly with the steep descent.</p> <p>it is an organized – read unionized – system. all those needing porters should pay the agent in advance and stand in line at the starting point of the parikrama. the names of the porters are written on small slips that are picked out by lots. as a name is called out, the porter gets assigned to the person at the head of the queue.</p> <p>later on, someone remarked that a significant portion of the payment would be retained by the agent / union.</p> <p>we had asked for 4 porters. the ones that were picked were: 1. an old man [must be around 65], 2. a young boy, not more than 10 years old [apparently the unions do not have any minimum age], 3. a boy of about 18 years and 4. a girl around 20.</p> <p>all the urban experience of playing dumb charades came in handy to establish contact and communicate with the porters, who only knew their language.</p> <p>except, as we discovered later – that many of them knew the ‘kolaveri’ song!</p> <p>my porter, the young girl would signal at regular intervals, that she needed to pause to catch her breath. at times it appeared more frequent than my need to take some breaks.</p> <p>through sign language, i got a feeling that this was her first kora [parikrama].<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hHR97SEirtE/UAGH4pG4QxI/AAAAAAAAESA/hcIfN_Ja9Dw/s1600-h/Sivapix-3333.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 333" border="0" alt="Sivapix 333" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uiDQ9nitUiQ/UAGH6O-yKqI/AAAAAAAAESI/nibD5tNRc2c/Sivapix-333_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_K3lkxYVfbQ/UAGH9O5HrFI/AAAAAAAAESQ/25GZ-HP4Cp0/s1600-h/Sivapix-3353.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 335" border="0" alt="Sivapix 335" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8LKP0nAfQeE/UAGH-bgvGSI/AAAAAAAAESY/_qnAgKOhxEY/Sivapix-335_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>we got many good glimpses of the north and west faces.<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5xOXEjOV0vU/UAGIBlQnzMI/AAAAAAAAESg/kiM6GexGHjQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-3393.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 339" border="0" alt="Sivapix 339" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7Kozezh_Ios/UAGIC0bOx9I/AAAAAAAAESo/W57GEynsAgc/Sivapix-339_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nNthh0b9x1Q/UAGIEfcILfI/AAAAAAAAESw/YlsyoVAFugg/s1600-h/DSCN09393.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0939" border="0" alt="DSCN0939" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HNLjK5CRWNA/UAGIFR2WaiI/AAAAAAAAES4/JnNB0h5Yl4M/DSCN0939_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>on the way, we crossed a couple of streams. the walk was mostly along the river. we noticed another group of trekkers, looked like they were locals – trekking and playing with the water on the other side of the river. they not only caught up with us, but also overtook us – effortlessly.</p> <p>and they were carrying their own bags!</p> <p>btw, the union regulations, we were told, limited the weight of the bag that can be carried by a porter to 7 kgs.</p> <p>if one engaged a pony, one would still need to engage a porter for the bag, as the pony is not expected to carry only the person and not the bag!</p> <p>from our resting point at derapuk, we could see the north face and also the ‘charan sparsh’ glacier that comes down from mount Kailas.<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7kVPwqcu1-g/UAGIIqx8rUI/AAAAAAAAETA/-4_0bZXTweU/s1600-h/Sivapix-3583.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 358" border="0" alt="Sivapix 358" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-e-WQRHdQd0w/UAGIJsDtTVI/AAAAAAAAETI/hEebQyUSbJQ/Sivapix-358_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uzdxoHIC-b4/UAGIMFGk_xI/AAAAAAAAETQ/Ja3JNH5LW9E/s1600-h/Sivapix-3593.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 359" border="0" alt="Sivapix 359" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PQTLUifpOjo/UAGINGGSlYI/AAAAAAAAETY/tcunZLFYqw0/Sivapix-359_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>with many rest stops, we took almost 5 hours to cover the 10 kilometers, while those that took ponies reached the resting point first and many others also reached earlier.</p> <p>there were some, who found it more difficult and took even longer.</p> <p>we then waited eagerly for the briefing at night, when the Leader Sherpa, Karma, would share his decision on those who need to return and not proceed further. we were hoping that none of us would be on that list.</p> <p>with a long and tough day ahead, we had to use the outdoor toilets in the evening / night itself, so that we can start early the next day.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-66256346889905528982012-07-14T20:20:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:20:28.899+05:30day 10 – parikrama 2<p> </p> <p>June 27, 2012. a significant day for me.</p> <p>the second day of the parikrama.</p> <p>we were to leave very early so that we reach the top point of Dolma La [pass] before the sun gets too hot.</p> <p>the total time taken was estimated to be on a average about 12-13 hours, possibly extending to 15.</p> <p>we had packed lunch, after a light, but high-calorie breakfast and started on the trek.</p> <p>today, we would not be able to see any face of Kailas, as the hills we would be walking around, would occult Kailas.</p> <p>the path was not paved, sometimes just sand, some times rocky. sometimes, steep climb, sometimes more gradual, but winding.</p> <p>we are to climb about 2000 feet in 6 kilometers and come down almost the same height, in about 4-5 kilometers.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wonhehyXRm0/UAGGNWNVYEI/AAAAAAAAENw/hHC8USsaD_E/s1600-h/Sivapix-3583.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 358" border="0" alt="Sivapix 358" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wrApm2BalxY/UAGGPM8T0qI/AAAAAAAAEN4/rPCDlqeUyQU/Sivapix-358_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Mg3Xdc6-aDk/UAGGRhVuH3I/AAAAAAAAEOA/IGqHniEhLXQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-3623.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 362" border="0" alt="Sivapix 362" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rU22WtYr6sw/UAGGSgPjKHI/AAAAAAAAEOI/IM7jkoyqKR4/Sivapix-362_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>after about a kilometer and a half, Anandi decided to take a pony to Dolma La, and my porter and hers decided to swap places.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XcZDXsN_IwE/UAGGUJ4ruxI/AAAAAAAAEOQ/wh0HaZJ2sMI/s1600-h/Sivapix-3653.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 365" border="0" alt="Sivapix 365" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rxyzadfX7Zk/UAGGVE3tHGI/AAAAAAAAEOY/XuUlx9H9ypE/Sivapix-365_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>that was when something strange happened. i felt the urge to keep moving on, without sitting to take rest.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-U-XvU3sNqjw/UAGGYTkuAYI/AAAAAAAAEOg/4lTUB9br9EM/s1600-h/Sivapix-3683.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 368" border="0" alt="Sivapix 368" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EvfYvQNV7yk/UAGGZ3oH0mI/AAAAAAAAEOo/UZa5R8TBIWA/Sivapix-368_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RW3WhnT6-lQ/UAGGdC0QGVI/AAAAAAAAEOw/wP33nsdE7gE/s1600-h/Sivapix-3713.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 371" border="0" alt="Sivapix 371" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ckkbdwPm9wE/UAGGePXYkbI/AAAAAAAAEO4/6JsoUCCLyUk/Sivapix-371_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>i passed Ganesh kund <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SieeB0HNJPw/UAGGhZ4xsII/AAAAAAAAEPA/panGUdH9CGQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-3723.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 372" border="0" alt="Sivapix 372" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0i5DKqNs1VQ/UAGGiujWrGI/AAAAAAAAEPI/TmyeJvlQK_Y/Sivapix-372_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> in the valley below and a stone which was considered ganesha <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VueEzwkgfXQ/UAGGlnwgrLI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/XKGeEAc6oGo/s1600-h/Sivapix-3733.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 373" border="0" alt="Sivapix 373" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-RrYJXUgZVMc/UAGGm_8MtqI/AAAAAAAAEPY/YNVax1doWv0/Sivapix-373_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>.</p> <p>a little further up, another stone that was pointed to by my porter – and i was asked to put in my forefinger through the two holes in that stone – considered to bring luck, by the Tibetans.</p> <p>this was not on the side of the rock facing the path – and unless the porter had told me – in gestures – i would not have known.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kbNfjw4BpmY/UAGGpSY799I/AAAAAAAAEPg/9MiTXpnFR_k/s1600-h/14-parikrama-6-fortune-holes3.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="14 parikrama 6 fortune holes" border="0" alt="14 parikrama 6 fortune holes" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NZLyiTmQzBU/UAGGqo6AJBI/AAAAAAAAEPo/ynas6IKRpMk/14-parikrama-6-fortune-holes_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>from Dolma La, it is a steep downhill, with rocks and loose sand in between. i got down confidently, with the grip of the shoes and also the porter who would not let my hand at spots where he felt that i needed guidance.</p> <p>as we got down, i saw gowri kund <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HffTHpRDBDM/UAGGtYdEcJI/AAAAAAAAEPw/bqw0PB5zS2k/s1600-h/14-parikrama-7-gowri-kund3.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="14 parikrama 7 gowri kund" border="0" alt="14 parikrama 7 gowri kund" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-09ppuU0VomA/UAGGuvaAaEI/AAAAAAAAEP4/Ultoblvjsp0/14-parikrama-7-gowri-kund_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> - that also needed a trek down to fetch water, if someone wanted.</p> <p>we had to cross some ice – frozen stream - <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HRFhxSkJq5A/UAGGxHwDdcI/AAAAAAAAEQA/W1irs9x4Ee8/s1600-h/14-parikrama-103.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="14 parikrama 10" border="0" alt="14 parikrama 10" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gENmztuG0NI/UAGG05nif3I/AAAAAAAAEQI/bXa9RvuqXZc/14-parikrama-10_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> and it started to very lightly snow <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cwt8Ej443Cc/UAGG4TA6EoI/AAAAAAAAEQQ/T8xfEn8kSu4/s1600-h/14-parikrama-113.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="14 parikrama 11" border="0" alt="14 parikrama 11" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uSmg_6-3wic/UAGG50Sh6-I/AAAAAAAAEQY/fxwe3vDn-cw/14-parikrama-11_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>.</p> <p>after the tea shop at the bottom of the descent, it was once again reasonably flat. <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nR_IV2xvRpM/UAGG72yUH-I/AAAAAAAAEQg/w29GXSE5k5U/s1600-h/Sivapix-3933.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 393" border="0" alt="Sivapix 393" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HYW3JibUJWU/UAGG9B7frkI/AAAAAAAAEQo/01HaA6OLwOc/Sivapix-393_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-sCt4s2tiinw/UAGG_rnZWOI/AAAAAAAAEQw/VEBoTYUEXbw/s1600-h/Sivapix-3943.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 394" border="0" alt="Sivapix 394" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-U7rz62Mf8Gk/UAGHAi0ewnI/AAAAAAAAEQ4/jDBPJUiRS_o/Sivapix-394_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>observe the blueness of the sky! <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2qvzdU_4128/UAGHDRupDVI/AAAAAAAAERA/K5QrMTBxsOk/s1600-h/Sivapix-4003.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 400" border="0" alt="Sivapix 400" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CW8XHZrHcf4/UAGHE4VhJrI/AAAAAAAAERI/4LowYraECrU/Sivapix-400_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>came across to ladies doing their kora – pretty much like ‘adi pradakshinam’.</p> <p align="left">they prostrate, get up, take a couple of steps to prostrate again, in effect doing it one body length after another. apparently, it could take them upto a month to complete a parikrama.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-H4HpbqXNgvM/UAGHHuUEXZI/AAAAAAAAERQ/UPTtULRMMLg/s1600-h/Sivapix-4023.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 402" border="0" alt="Sivapix 402" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0d5Xvf_PQns/UAGHJGNhIII/AAAAAAAAERY/QXcJCIRWAvs/Sivapix-402_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>though relatively easier, the road seemed endless.</p> <p>at one point, i was relieved when i saw some tents and thought that was our destination – the thatha porter laughed loudly in his characteristic way and No la, and pointing around another tall hill – and said Laaaaaa! Ha ha ha ha ha..</p> <p>when i reached the zuthulpuk guest house – after an hour’s break at the tea shop, waiting for the others – i had clocked nine hours and thirty minutes!</p> <p>looking back. when people asked me how i picked up speed or completed the day 2 or what i felt during the parikrama, i had no answer.</p> <p>i had been walking like a driven zombie, if there was one. i could feel some power pushing me and egging me on, not to stop and sit, but take a brief pause and keep moving.</p> <p>some very personal experiences also happened through this walk – too personal to share here… whenever i paused, the old man porter would keep calling chalo chalo.. and at times, i felt like a cousin of Forrest Gump, who had to keep walking..</p> <p align="left">i also noticed that the sherpas were moving up and down – multiple times, looking out for people who may need help or oxygen.one of them was carrying an oxygen cylinder on his back..</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-a9X7NxoaRO4/UAGHLqtMqiI/AAAAAAAAERg/B4vwmQyyaFU/s1600-h/Sivapix-4193.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 419" border="0" alt="Sivapix 419" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PKZw83yWFIQ/UAGHMkfVbVI/AAAAAAAAERo/7IEKSlFCDKI/Sivapix-419_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>they moved on only after everyone had safely crossed Dolma La. in fact, there was one lady who was left alone by her guide – from another group, as the sherpas had to take care of another group member who needed to be brought down and taken back. our sherpas carried her stuff and also brought her down to safer levels.</p> <p>their dedication and cheerfulness, as well as resourcefulness to ensure the safety and comfort of all the members deserves a lot of praise and thanks.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-28789275956452731022012-07-14T20:13:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:13:39.567+05:30days 11-14 parikrama 3 and back home<p> </p> <p align="left">day 3 of parikrama started well – with a bright and cheerful dawn </p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-urZf971Mvgg/UAGFElQisfI/AAAAAAAAELg/Kby4jkt6pHo/s1600-h/Sivapix-4143.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 414" border="0" alt="Sivapix 414" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-K6QQxmJLmGk/UAGFFlSQ_kI/AAAAAAAAELo/FYlSMcD1_4Y/Sivapix-414_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>it appeared that the distance of six km should be a cakewalk, a leisurely stroll.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JVG4eJbp8Mg/UAGFJPLz6xI/AAAAAAAAELw/WDSnqfW-M7M/s1600-h/Sivapix-4163.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 416" border="0" alt="Sivapix 416" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-xv3OP_dBziw/UAGFKjEF3RI/AAAAAAAAEL4/id0qCijQZ4g/Sivapix-416_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a>, but became more interesting with a couple of climbs <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qy9Zo8HG4VQ/UAGFN3vOWZI/AAAAAAAAEMA/ep_tzfSeXPo/s1600-h/Sivapix-4213.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 421" border="0" alt="Sivapix 421" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-et0y8OTUuBg/UAGFPftY1uI/AAAAAAAAEMI/WtDXGbC9Tbg/Sivapix-421_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a> and beautiful views <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hYhUjlvJYKE/UAGFR2vJH7I/AAAAAAAAEMQ/cjTX4vqP-8Y/s1600-h/Sivapix-4243.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 424" border="0" alt="Sivapix 424" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-znaCinauR-Y/UAGFTCDc4MI/AAAAAAAAEMY/VP-2XacW0JE/Sivapix-424_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a> and the end of the parikrama was in sight, when we saw our vehicles waiting for us.</p> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IUTJOiK2cCE/UAGFVzOB21I/AAAAAAAAEMg/BmbtCj86RCg/s1600-h/Sivapix-4303.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 430" border="0" alt="Sivapix 430" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-b3yZTMQ6PUU/UAGFXMCYeeI/AAAAAAAAEMo/jzmaSBq0soQ/Sivapix-430_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p> </p> <p>after that, it was a long ride back.</p> <p>to Saga via Darchen and then to Kathmandu the next day. we crossed some rain and mist as we passed Nyalam – and could not recognize the place.</p> <p>it looked beautiful, more like the hill stations we had seen in the tropics.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vkXLobAWA7k/UAGFYjBjiqI/AAAAAAAAEMw/kEwzd9sjoHQ/s1600-h/Sivapix-4863.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 486" border="0" alt="Sivapix 486" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-U_atrx0YXek/UAGFZz6Iw9I/AAAAAAAAEM4/UwXVtNGCJtQ/Sivapix-486_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-T6IoEYfUTDg/UAGFdIi2UkI/AAAAAAAAENA/OzP07o7Yrdw/s1600-h/Sivapix-4943.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 494" border="0" alt="Sivapix 494" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PWUoVwR4Nio/UAGFelqXG1I/AAAAAAAAENI/3dE5rhfOPuo/Sivapix-494_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-f5c18NifSMk/UAGFgSAEsRI/AAAAAAAAENQ/WQnOFpuv1DU/s1600-h/Sivapix-4993.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="Sivapix 499" border="0" alt="Sivapix 499" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bqavpk9oRnM/UAGFiDHKh6I/AAAAAAAAENY/kI_2m9T_ZWk/Sivapix-499_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_OkMRsUj_T0/UAGFlER9ksI/AAAAAAAAENg/LX3qF0w2Swk/s1600-h/DSCN09953.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="DSCN0995" border="0" alt="DSCN0995" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oov1znqAl7g/UAGFmfu15hI/AAAAAAAAENo/g4WEhgnSDdo/DSCN0995_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>the last day – day 14 – was back to Bangalore via new Delhi. this time, fortunately, we could get our luggage checked in directly all the way to Bangalore, though we had to clear customs in Delhi.</p> <p>back home after 2 weeks, the curd rice was heavenly for dinner!</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-9555743961132095412012-07-14T20:09:00.001+05:302012-07-14T20:09:54.875+05:30Thanks.. and a request<p>Thanks for your patience to have plodded through [i am assuming] all the posts.</p> <p>hope you also shared your comments on various posts.</p> <p>as i mentioned in the preface, the Kailas yatra experience is a very personal one.</p> <p>i have tried to share some of the generic points.</p> <p>what i experienced at mansarovar and during the parikrama is something i am not able to put in words.</p> <p>i am sure that others you may know, who had undertaken this yatra would also have their experiences.</p> <p> </p> <p>if you can share the link for this blog with your friends and request them also to share their experiences here, this can be a useful resource for those who wish to undertake such travel in the future.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7322950290341818004.post-59020231955828544812012-07-06T16:41:00.001+05:302012-07-14T22:05:44.612+05:30The preparations<p>sorry to disappoint you – but frankly, my preparations were nothing very special or exclusive for this trip.</p> <p>just adhering to the routines i already had – with some variations was my way of preparing.</p> <p>1. regular walking</p> <p>continued my morning walks – with variations as follows:</p> <p>> synchronizing the breathing rhythm with the pace of walking.</p> <p>> walking slowly [which sometimes frustrated others walking along, as it needs more patience]</p> <p>2. breathing rhythm</p> <p>> steady, slow breathing through the day,while involved in other activities</p> <p>> essentially, doing it more consciously </p> <p>3. an intro trek!</p> <p>thanks to Mr Sridhar [of SPAN – see resources page for a link], a day trek was organized to a place – let us call this BK – about 90 km from Bangalore.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ruBY4nW_nUo/T_bHnhgYqkI/AAAAAAAAEJQ/QkcYDSz-HTg/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520001%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: left; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 001" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 001" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-N8q2rb4aZa4/T_bHo6q0WhI/AAAAAAAAEJY/qTUbD2PCyIE/BheemanaKindi%252520001_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a></p> <p>the reason for using a nickname for the location is based on a specific request to not make this a ‘popular’ spot that would then soon get spoilt by casual visitors.</p> <p>i could not find much information on this location, when i searched – before the visit.</p> <p>this was both good and bad from my perspective.</p> <p>good, because i could get over some of my fear of heights – by getting down pretty much by myself – at my own pace. <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-USxh_eLcGhI/T_bHqVa3dSI/AAAAAAAAEJg/e8aWsygtEJY/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520036%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; float: right; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 036" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 036" align="right" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZHnyBxZGAx8/T_bHrsP4tdI/AAAAAAAAEJo/-kPSYUJIsG0/BheemanaKindi%252520036_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a>the picture below is just an indication of the cliff – not an indication of the path taken <img style="border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none" class="wlEmoticon wlEmoticon-smile" alt="Smile" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-I0GS46H9WZo/T_bHtGuPDtI/AAAAAAAAEJw/DgFDHnDWBcM/wlEmoticon-smile%25255B2%25255D.png?imgmax=800"></p> <p> </p> <p>not so good, because many others [different age groups] were <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hEQiQHgLKW8/T_bHuGndurI/AAAAAAAAEJ4/Q4HjX6rTnPk/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520004%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: block; float: none; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; border-left-width: 0px; margin-right: auto; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 004" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 004" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--AZfygPiwQs/T_bHvFan4MI/AAAAAAAAEJ8/8r_3a9fJCJo/BheemanaKindi%252520004_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a>able to do it with such ease and showed hardly any signs of fatigue or breathlessness.. and i was wondering if i found it tiring even for this, will i be able to make it to kailash!</p> <p>rather than worrying about such maters, decided that the views from the top were worth the efforts!</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8hO8grSZOqA/T_bHwSsrAOI/AAAAAAAAEKI/y6-9b9d52_A/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520077%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 077" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 077" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CppN8sS1ub0/T_bHx5jkOpI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/qwMLPuMTISQ/BheemanaKindi%252520077_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LcZD_Pd5c68/T_bHzNRfL8I/AAAAAAAAEKY/9DsOA4DpCXg/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520078%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 078" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 078" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-kY_K5RKf0us/T_bH0WEz_YI/AAAAAAAAEKg/2kXkuN7jRYA/BheemanaKindi%252520078_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-H_tjQWS9VJ0/T_bH1jYQTiI/AAAAAAAAEKo/QCspukuzEtc/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520021%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 021" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 021" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gGTajLmC608/T_bH2xF2tyI/AAAAAAAAEKw/PMcVzCMgM4g/BheemanaKindi%252520021_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" height="184"></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EqenYmm4isk/T_bH4ONsZmI/AAAAAAAAEK4/wUk1xanmsB4/s1600-h/BheemanaKindi%252520027%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img style="background-image: none; border-right-width: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; display: inline; border-top-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; padding-top: 0px" title="BheemanaKindi 027" border="0" alt="BheemanaKindi 027" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-r_-xZOLxNaE/T_bH5Z1SThI/AAAAAAAAELA/lBoQr6dyZo4/BheemanaKindi%252520027_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="184" height="244"></a></p> <p>the good news was that whatever i felt strenuous, was ok – and that i should make it to kailash with continued practice..</p> <p>that was reassuring.</p> <p>4. medical check-up</p> <p>> of late, i was feeling some discomfort [and mild pain] in my knees while climbing stairs etc. so, got an expert opinion from the family ortho – who said that though there are some indications of degeneration in the knee ligaments, i should be able to undertake this trip</p> <p>> a similar consultation with the family physician also – for other aspects such as pressure, sugar - turned out positive for the trip</p> <p>p.s. if you are interested in this place and want more details, do contact me.</p> Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6